Beginner blade sharpening thread

BigWaylon

BigWaylon

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I’ve watched enough videos that I’m going to give knife sharpening a shot. I’m going with the 1x30 belt sander method, and am going to use this thread to ask all my questions as I go.

At this point I’ve bought nothing, but have the sander, belts, leather strop and compound in various carts online. I’m going to try and find a couple thrift store knives in the next couple weeks to start on...but the end goal will be to use it on my EDC knives and my wife’s good Wusthof kitchen blades. So, not a whole lot to ask at the moment.

The one question I do have right now, as I would’ve thought there was one right way to do it...but videos show otherwise. When you are doing the sharping, is it better to go down to the edge or up from the edge? I’ve seen both:

76368DAE-F7A1-4533-8C95-032F278A7591.png
7E5DA67C-0FC3-4D53-BD85-592D84344D33.png

In both cases they go towards the edge (top pic) when it comes time to strop...which makes a lot of sense.

I see brackets/jigs available like the one in the bottom pic, and they’re all for sharpening away from the edge.
 
I've got the same setup. I'm in the Charlotte area, happy to come over some time to show you.
Few things:
1.) don't get the cheap aluminum oxide belts. You'll get tons of static shocks
2.) keep the blade guard off, makes it quicker to change belts.
3.) Don't sharpen on the platen, sharpen with the 1-2" of unsupported space. This will allow you to convex the edge
4.) Always point the blade downwards. If you are pointing it upwards, into the oncoming belt, you can cut through the belt by accident, or worse, catch the blade and fling it.
 
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pinkbunny said:
I've got the same setup. I'm in the Charlotte area, happy to come over some time to show you.
Few things:
1.) don't get the cheap aluminum oxide belts. You'll get tons of static shocks
2.) keep the blade guard off, makes it quicker to change belts.
3.) Don't sharpen on the platen, sharpen with the 1-2" of unsupported space. This will allow you to convex the edge
4.) Always point the blade downwards. If you are pointing it upwards, into the oncoming belt, you can cut through the belt by accident, or worse, catch the blade and fling it.
Click to expand...
I work on a 2x72 Coote grinder and I agree with the above, though an interesting note is that I remember reading that Mike at Bark River grinds edge up. I'd stick to edge down for most things if I were you.

Definitely learn without a jig or holder. Learning freehand will make you better and more versatile than relying on a crutch to take the feel out of it.

Also, don't start with too high a grit and remember that power tools amplify F ups so take your time.
 
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pinkbunny said:
I've got the same setup. I'm in the Charlotte area, happy to come over some time to show you.
Few things:
1.) don't get the cheap aluminum oxide belts. You'll get tons of static shocks
2.) keep the blade guard off, makes it quicker to change belts.
3.) Don't sharpen on the platen, sharpen with the 1-2" of unsupported space. This will allow you to convex the edge
4.) Always point the blade downwards. If you are pointing it upwards, into the oncoming belt, you can cut through the belt by accident, or worse, catch the blade and fling it.
Click to expand...
You’ve sharpened a couple blades for me before, and I still have your number (assuming it hasn’t changed). I was planning to reach out once I was actually ready to start...but thanks for confirming you’re willing to come by. 😁

1. The ones I was looking at say silicon carbide. That work?
2. The side plate to the whole thing? I’ve seen most of the people have done that in their setups, so that was my plan.
3. That looked like the best option to my untrained eye after watching several videos. Also means I don’t waste money on one of the adjustable jigs. I see most people cut the shield that goes over the top pulley to give them more room. Leave just enough to block the grit/compound that might sling right at them.
4. That’s what made sense to me, but quite a few of the videos showed people sharpening the opposite way.

the one other thing I saw that made a little sense to me was one guy cut part of the top shield off, so you stood behind the machine and used the belt as it was going away from you
 
frakncylons said:
Also, don't start with too high a grit and remember that power tools amplify F ups so take your time.
Click to expand...
The assortment I was looking at was 120/220/400/600/1000, plus the strop.

...and as I mentioned, I wanna start with some junk knives just in case.
 
I use the Spyderco SharpMaker with great success. Very easy and makes things sharp. I boogered enough blades on dad's grinding wheel as a kid to know me no smart enuff to use mechanical sharpening devices. Manual makes me slow down and pay attention to what I'm doing.
 
BigWaylon said:
You’ve sharpened a couple blades for me before, and I still have your number (assuming it hasn’t changed). I was planning to reach out once I was actually ready to start...but thanks for confirming you’re willing to come by. 😁

1. The ones I was looking at say silicon carbide. That work?
2. The side plate to the whole thing? I’ve seen most of the people have done that in their setups, so that was my plan.
3. That looked like the best option to my untrained eye after watching several videos. Also means I don’t waste money on one of the adjustable jigs. I see most people cut the shield that goes over the top pulley to give them more room. Leave just enough to block the grit/compound that might sling right at them.
4. That’s what made sense to me, but quite a few of the videos showed people sharpening the opposite way.

the one other thing I saw that made a little sense to me was one guy cut part of the top shield off, so you stood behind the machine and used the belt as it was going away from you
Click to expand...
Nope, same number. :)
1.) I like the 3m Trizact: https://www.supergrit.com/view.php?pg=products/products_belts-Trizact
4.) The problem with it is mostly when you get to the leather strop. Pretty easy to accidentally shear right through it.
 
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It is kind of a situation where there is not necessarily a right way or wrong way. When I do use a belt I go edge up. I think I may be in the minority there but I feel like I have more control and insight into what is happening that way. But it is certainly the harder of the two ways to learn.
 
My take.

I sharpen up and strop down. I've never cut a belt.

Buy good belts.

I have an extra one of those guides. PM me your address and it's yours.
 
BigWaylon said:
1. The ones I was looking at say silicon carbide. That work?
Click to expand...

Just checked. Is this the ones you're looking at? I think I used those before, in winter, I'd get a static shock ever 30 seconds or so. With sharp blades and rapidly spinning equipment, was a bad time.

A few other things people forget:
Personal Protection. Gloves. You'll get metal dust everywhere. Breathing. For 1 or 2 knives, not a problem, but you don't want to be breathing in too much. Eye pro is a must. Ear pro isn't a bad idea, either.
Don't sharpen near anything white.
Multiple types of jewelers rouge is usually a waste of money. One is good enough.
Practice lifting off the tip on your cheap knives. Too long on the tip, and you heat it up to much. Too little, and it doesn't have a good grind. Too much pressure, anticipating lifting early, and you could wear off the tip.
 
www.combatabrasives.com

1" x 30" Sanding Belts for Finishing & Sharpening

1" x 30" Sanding Belts for Finishing & Sharpening What is Finishing & Sharpening? Profiling is the development of the basic shape of a cutting instrument. Sharpening involves giving an edge to the profiled piece of steel/metal that was previously profiled and shaped. What does an X or J weight...
www.combatabrasives.com www.combatabrasives.com
 
pinkbunny said:

Just checked. Is this the ones you're looking at? I think I used those before, in winter, I'd get a static shock ever 30 seconds or so. With sharp blades and rapidly spinning equipment, was a bad time.

A few other things people forget:
Personal Protection. Gloves. You'll get metal dust everywhere. Breathing. For 1 or 2 knives, not a problem, but you don't want to be breathing in too much. Eye pro is a must. Ear pro isn't a bad idea, either.
Don't sharpen near anything white.
Multiple types of jewelers rouge is usually a waste of money. One is good enough.
Practice lifting off the tip on your cheap knives. Too long on the tip, and you heat it up to much. Too little, and it doesn't have a good grind. Too much pressure, anticipating lifting early, and you could wear off the tip.
Click to expand...
This is what I was looking at: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1X30-Super...-/283931483957?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Same seller, so maybe the same belts?
 
rantingredneck said:
My take.

I sharpen up and strop down. I've never cut a belt.

Buy good belts.

I have an extra one of those guides. PM me your address and it's yours.
Click to expand...
The angled guide that goes on the base? Thanks for the offer. PM coming.
 
Red Label abrasives on Amazon is also good. I'm not entirely sure they make 1x30 though. I use some of their 2x72s. With one caveat, last batch of 36 grit I got from them I could not get to track straight to save my life. I was tempted to return them and they'd have likely replaced them, but I worked through it and used them anyway.
 
rantingredneck said:
www.combatabrasives.com

1" x 30" Sanding Belts for Finishing & Sharpening

1" x 30" Sanding Belts for Finishing & Sharpening What is Finishing & Sharpening? Profiling is the development of the basic shape of a cutting instrument. Sharpening involves giving an edge to the profiled piece of steel/metal that was previously profiled and shaped. What does an X or J weight...
www.combatabrasives.com www.combatabrasives.com
Click to expand...
What’s a good starting variety?
120/220/400/600/800, plus leather strop?

Or remove one of those? Swap something out? Add something?

Is 800 enough to be the the final before stropping?

X weight or J Flex?


CA986FA5-7B79-4B8C-8AFC-801E68465A87.png
 
rantingredneck said:
Red Label abrasives on Amazon is also good. I'm not entirely sure they make 1x30 though. I use some of their 2x72s. With one caveat, last batch of 36 grit I got from them I could not get to track straight to save my life. I was tempted to return them and they'd have likely replaced them, but I worked through it and used them anyway.
Click to expand...
Something like this?

Red Label Abrasives 1 X 30 Inch Premium Silicon Carbide Sanding Belts - 180, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800 Grit - 12 Pack Assortment https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079KCHKS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_eusYFbK89MEP7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If 800 is high enough, then strop?

they do have a 400/600/800/1000 kit, but I’d guess I want to start lower than 400?

To be clear, this is all about sharpening existing knives, not starting with a blank...in case that influences the answers.
 
Honestly if you're not reprofiling or doing heavy shaping work anything under 220 is unneeded. I could make an argument for starting with 400 even for your application. I use more 400 grit than any other belt for sharpening and can go straight from 400 to a strop.
 
And either weight will do for you. The Jflex are a little less stiff backing.
 
rantingredneck said:
Honestly if you're not reprofiling or doing heavy shaping work anything under 220 is unneeded. I could make an argument for starting with 400 even for your application. I use more 400 grit than any other belt for sharpening and can go straight from 400 to a strop.
Click to expand...
So even a 220/400/800/strop setup could work buying the individual belts listed above?

I did sign up for their emails so I could get 15% off my first order.
 
And since I’m not buying the combo kit from Amazon/eBay, anybody have a recommendation for a strop & compound?

I don’t see a 1x30 leather one on the combat abrasives site. The same place that sells the stuff on Amazon & eBay has one and includes compound. Is it worth buying even if their belts are not?
 
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don't move too slow. the belt generates a lot of heat and you can ruin the temper of a blade pretty quick. My EDC pocket knife gets scary sharp using this method but I have to re-do the edge pretty frequently because I effed up the metal.

ETA: also, practice on junk knives won't teach you much. cheap chinesium doesn't respond in the same way as quality steel.
 
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...and just to vent for a second...why does every HF coupon exclude Central Machinery. 😡

Got a 25% one via text today, not able to use it. They do mark the sander down from $49 to $39 occasionally, but I think the last coupon for that price expired in July. Waiting on a HF gift card to come in the mail before I buy anyway, but geez.
 
BTW...if anybody else is wanting to start, I don’t mind at all if you jump in here with questions. I’m sure I’ll have some (more) dumb ones along the way. But you may have some I haven’t even thought of, so ask away.

I’ll also make sure to add some notes from whenever I actually get started and @pinkbunny comes for a visit.
 
Sharping knives requires one thing you cannot buy. Patience. All the equipment in the world will not make you good at knife sharpening if you don't put in the work. If you put in the work you can do it with a couple of stones and a strop. Mostly it is about "feel". Do it enuff and you will develop a feel for holding the correct angle even on the strop. You will be able to "feel" when the angle is wrong. That "feel" comes from practice and patience.
 
It's leather glued to a board. It's not that complicated lol. This one probably came from Amazon. It's double sided and I think came with compound for not much money.

I'd recommend it for finishing touches by hand.

You want to move to next level scary sharp we can talk about diamond dust or emulsions and leather.

Or a good hard stone like jade or jasper and water.

(Yoda voice): "So much to learn young padawan..... "
 
I’m reading this as the compounds are very similar, but the product determines the color? Any one preferred over the others if I just want to use one?

www.combatabrasives.com

Polishing Compound for Buffing Wheels

WHAT ARE METAL POLISHING COMPOUNDS? Our metal polishing compounds are used with airway buffing wheels to increase the effectiveness of the wheel while being used during the cutting, buffing, and polishing process. Some are of a coarser consistency and are usually used to remove scratches while...
www.combatabrasives.com www.combatabrasives.com
 
BigWaylon said:
BTW...if anybody else is wanting to start, I don’t mind at all if you jump in here with questions. I’m sure I’ll have some (more) dumb ones along the way. But you may have some I haven’t even thought of, so ask away.

I’ll also make sure to add some notes from whenever I actually get started and @pinkbunny comes for a visit.
Click to expand...
Ive been kicking around the idea of setting up for this, too.
Lemme know when funnyrabbit, I mean @pinkbunny is stopping by and I will, too, if its cool with you. Id like to get that lesson, too.
 
rantingredneck said:
I'd recommend it for finishing touches by hand.
Click to expand...
So start with one on the sander, but grab one of those at some point to touch a kitchen blade up at times?
 
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draco88 said:
Ive been kicking around the idea of setting up for this, too.
Lemme know when funnyrabbit, I mean @pinkbunny is stopping by and I will, too, if its cool with you. Id like to get that lesson, too.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a plan!

BTW...I went to order belts and it’s multiples of 6 for each grit, because it sounds like they cut down a wider belt. Wanna just split an order? I’ll order several extras and if you want them we’ll figure it out.
 
BigWaylon said:
Better option than using a 1x30?

If so, where to get one that’s decent?
Click to expand...
https://www.supergrit.com/products/products_belts-misc <---the felt pads are great as an alternative to leather. Take polish amazingly well.
trugrit.com

1 x 30-Leather Stropping Belt | Tru Grit, Inc. | The Leading Edge in Abrasives and Knifemaking Supplies

Leather is best used for sharpening/honing edges. Using a compound such as Tormek PA-70 Honing Paste or Green Chrome compound on the rough surface will greatly improve performance. *Belts are made short to allow for stretch
trugrit.com trugrit.com
prosharpeningsupply.com

SUPER STROP Premium Leather Honing Belts

Super Strop Premium Leather honing belts are made in the USA and unconditionally guaranteed against Material & Manufacturer defects and even user error. Super Strops are available in most common sizes from 1/2X12 & 1x30 up to a 2x72. Find our INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEOS HERE Stropping a blade's edge...
prosharpeningsupply.com prosharpeningsupply.com

Those should all be GtG. While you can get amazing work with a strop, I like using the leather 1x30. Great for quickly getting the feathers all aligned right, and the leafy bits removed, getting a mirror polish on there quickly.
I usually stick with green or white. I don't think there are many standards on what level of microns they should be, which is why I never bothered. Besides, going above 6000-8000 grit for most knives is usually a bit counter productive, unless you are doing something like sushi. You want to have a little 'bite.'
 
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