Now that my daughter’s 10K is behind us, I’ve switched over from running training to hiking training. Did 11 miles in Linville Gorge today. With the possible closure of the Wolf Pit trailhead come June, I thought I’d try an alternate trailhead to access Shortoff Mountain. I parked at the Fonta Flora trail parking lot located on NC 126 at Wolf Pit Road and hiked the MST Connector trail over to the MST, up the MST to the top of Shortoff, then back down the MST to a gameland connector trail that roughly parallels the MST connector trail back to the parking area. Did 11 miles total. Could have hiked more easy miles on Shortoff, but since this is my first big training hike, I didn’t want to overdo it. I'm glad I didn't - I was wiped out enough by the end.
First of all, the Fonta Flora/MST connector trail is very nice. Has some ups and downs, but nothing horrible. Scenery was beautiful and it parallels the Linville River for a good ways. Would be a pretty decent fishing trail, even if you have part of a collapsed rod sticking out your pack. It was fairly clear overhead much of the way. Parts of it remind me a lot of South Mountain State Park. There were a couple decent swimming holes I saw in the river along the way, too. One could make a fun day hike out of it with swimming, fishing, picnicking, etc. Just have to carry your stuff in and out, but the trail was easy enough that that wouldn't be that bad for anyone in reasonable shape and doable for most if you pace yourself. Even if you just want a pretty, mostly shaded 5.5ish mile hike, you could certainly do worse, at least until it gets within about a half mile of the MST. At that point, it gets steep as it climbs into a burnover area and isn't as pretty, shady, or easy that last half mile or so of the connector. But, if you turn around at the 2.7ish mark, you don't get into that last ugly half mile.
But once you get to the MST, oh my goodness, does it get hard. 1.2 miles of suck - literally - as in sucking wind. This ain't my first rodeo on this section of the MST. I've done it a few other times, but it sure wasn't any easier on me now than before, even though I am arguably in better shape, definitely weigh less, and was carrying less pack than when I did that part the last time, about a year ago. Whoever cut this section of the MST did not believe in switchbacks. There are none. There are a few little wiggles in the trail as it climbs a ridge towards Shortoff Mountain. You get a few breaks where the grade flattens out somewhat for a bit, and there are a couple smallish areas where fires of the past didn't kill all the big trees, but it is mostly UP with minimal shade. Thankfully, today wasn't too hot, but it was hot enough. Those 1.2 miles took me 50 minutes, which was a touch on the humbling side. They took me 36 minutes coming down, which was more painful in the joints than going up and a hard workout in its own right.
Once the MST joins the Shortoff Mountain trail, there is a shorter section of suck as you finish the ascent up Shortoff with some masterfully made, but difficult, trail stairs made of native rock and dirt. My hat is off to whomever did these stairs decades ago. They have really stood the test of time, but that doesn't make them any easier to climb.
I stopped at Unbelievable Point for a snack and drink. Took the pack off and rested for 15 or 20 minutes - my first break since starting the hike. I was 4.88 miles in at that point, according to Avenza. While I sat there, a seaplane buzzed by as it flew out of the Gorge towards Lake James. It was close enough, someone with a good arm could have hit it with a rock. No exaggeration. He was CLOSE to the cliff face and maybe 20-30 feet higher than where I sat. Could easily see the pilot's face. He drifted down to the lake and landed in the middle of the closest arm to the mountain. You could see the white of his splashdown. Then it subsided and he floated for several minutes. A dark shape that looked like it was a boat moved out toward him, but it was impossible to see at that distance whether it stopped where he was or was just passing through. Eventually, the white surrounded him again as he started moving to take off and he flew away somewhere. It was really neat to see.
Saw very little wildlife - some birds and lizards. Still a lot of flowers blooming. The blueberry bushes have small, unripe berries which will be yummy trail snacks here in several weeks. Blackberries are just flowering up there, which will be yummy trail snacks after the blueberries are gone.
I did the hike in a skosh over 5 hours, so my average pace, including stops, was a bit over 2 miles an hour. I was pleased with that, given how long the MST climb took. I carried extra water so I wouldn't have to filter any, which saved me some time. I broke in a new pair of hiking shoes, too, which went well. Got a couple hot spots as I figured out the ideal lacing tightness, but they performed mostly as I need them to. Any time I can do an extended hike at an average of 2 miles an hour over varied terrain, I'm satisfied. On backpacking trips, 2 mph is a pretty decent average pace and allows one to cover a lot of ground in a day, when needed.
This route has its own appeal, but it is frustrating to think that it might have to replace routes starting at Wolf Pit, as it adds over 5 miles total to any hike we would normally do that goes up Shortoff. Last year, my most used training hike was Wolfpit to Table Rock parking area, which is right at 14 miles and has two tough ascents that were great for training. Doing that hike from the NC-126 parking area would be nearly 20 miles, which I have done in a single day, but is not something I have the time and hiking chops to do regularly, especially given the Shortoff ascent would be much harder than when starting from Wolf Pit.
Guess we will see how things shake out with the potential trail head closure in June.
Pics below, in hike order:
Mountain laurel (?) blooming on the connector trail.
Lake James from Unbelievable Point. The green ridge just right of center at the bottom is the ridge the MST climbs straight up from the Linville River. Toughest section of this hike by far.
Better view of part of the MST ridge.
Sea plane after he passed us. Camera wasn’t handy as he came by.
Across the gorge.
More blooms on Shortoff.
Headed down the mountain again. The MST breaks off the Shortoff trail here to the right. The fun begins again, only downhill this way. Ugh.
Trail snacks to come….
I passed a pile of bear scat in the trail on the way up the MST. When I came down, a dung beetle had found it and was doing what dung beetles do.
View of Shortoff from the gameland trail that I hiked back to the trailhead.
Was so glad of this sight!
Avenza lost GPS signal towards the end of the hike and I had to start a new track. Total mileage was right at 11 miles in reality. Minimum elevation was 1209’, max 2993’. Lots more total elevation gain than that given the ups and downs.