Reloading issues

I'll say this much...in addition to the answer and suggestions posted in this thread, I've had a half-dozen or so offers through PMs to come help, it at least offering other solutions. .

I do appreciate it.

I got the 9mm FCD this morning, thanks to my first trip to the back room at Little Hardware. Been there many times, but never for reloading stuff. Now I have Chuck's card in my wallet.
 
One random question...is it OK to reuse the bullets that have some of the coating stripped off? Was thinking about at least loading them up and shooting them in a 9mm revolver since cycling won't be an issue.
 
BigWaylon said:
One random question...is it OK to reuse the bullets that have some of the coating stripped off? Was thinking about at least loading them up and shooting them in a 9mm revolver since cycling won't be an issue.
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Depends what you mean by "ok." It is not dangerous to do so, but accuracy will not be optimal and since you've reduced the size of the bullet you may experience some leading.

I would not shoot them through a suppressor.
 
JimB said:
Depends what you mean by "ok." It is not dangerous to do so, but accuracy will not be optimal and since you've reduced the size of the bullet you may experience some leading.

I would not shoot them through a suppressor.
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Thanks.

Yeah, wasn't going to shoot them through a can. Just the revolver whenever I get it. I know it's pennies we're talking about, but didn't meant to toss out a several dozen bullets if it didn't have to.
 
BigWaylon said:
One random question...is it OK to reuse the bullets that have some of the coating stripped off? Was thinking about at least loading them up and shooting them in a 9mm revolver since cycling won't be an issue.
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I would not. Best case scenario they smoke a lot and accuracy is poor, worst case you turn your gun into a smoothbore by leading it up badly. Just not worth it, at least to me, for a handful of bullets. Give them to a local buddy who casts or drill a hole in them and use them for fishing sinkers.
 
dave33 said:
I would not. Best case scenario they smoke a lot and accuracy is poor, worst case you turn your gun into a smoothbore by leading it up badly. Just not worth it, at least to me, for a handful of bullets. Give them to a local buddy who casts or drill a hole in them and use them for fishing sinkers.
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Maybe I'll just create my own 12ga load that's a cross between a slug and buckshot...I'll call it 147 Buck. :D
 
It can be a little time consuming but I sort all my brass by head stamp when it comes out of the tumbler, empty coffee cans are great for this. and I'm one of the ones that think a factory crimp die is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Just set it litely where you can feel it remove the bell, I used to have the occasional failure to go into battery,but the FDC has stopped this entirely,
 
Figured I'd update this topic as well...

Based on feedback in this thread, and PMs, and some tips in the Lee manual, I opted to go with a 5-die setup for four calibers. @Mike Overlay was over today to walk me through getting it all setup.

Lee's instructions included a suggestion of putting a universal decapping die in the first station, and the sizing die in the second with the decapping pin removed, which aids in aligning the case for the priming step.

We got to it using a different method that multiple people here suggested...Lee sizing/decapping in the first, and a powder thru die in the second. That powder through centers the case as well as handling the flaring. Third station is just the powder charge. Fourth is the seating die. And then the crimp is handled by the FCD in step 5.

(I think the fourth stage does a little crimp work on the 38/357, IIRC).

This should let me load all four calibers without worrying about sorting head stamps. The only adjustment I should need when changing projectiles is the seating depth.

Thanks for all your help.
 
Adding the same pic from the other thread, in case anybody stumbles across this thread later. :D

IMG_8761.JPG
 
Uggh...

Loaded up 50 180gr .40s, and all plunk in the case gauge. Most of them plunk just fine in my Glock/LWD barrels as well.

Decided to try them in my CA Pitbull, and they won't go all the way in 2 of the 5 cylinders. :mad:
 
BigWaylon said:
Uggh...

Loaded up 50 180gr .40s, and all plunk in the case gauge. Most of them plunk just fine in my Glock/LWD barrels as well.

Decided to try them in my CA Pitbull, and they won't go all the way in 2 of the 5 cylinders. :mad:
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The pitbull may not like coated lead. It may want plated or jacketed
 
Mike Overlay said:
The pitbull may not like coated lead. It may want plated or jacketed
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That's kinda what I'm thinking. Good thing there's some plated on a UPS truck headed my way. :D

And since I'm obviously not running a cab on it, I can run whatever factory stuff I have around.

It may also like a round nose that's narrower.
 
You ever get everything straightened out? I've loaded a few thousand rounds of 9mm coated lead on my loadmaster and am only running 3 dies and use mixed headstamps
 
Gear Head said:
You ever get everything straightened out? I've loaded a few thousand rounds of 9mm coated lead on my loadmaster and am only running 3 dies and use mixed headstamps
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Yep. Seems to be OK. Got 50 9mm and 50 .40 loaded, and going to do a dozen .38 and a dozen .357 tomorrow.

I think it'll run even better with the powder disconnect removed. I'm really going to have to pay attention when testing the .40s, as I'm not 100% sure they all got a full powder load...but we'll see.

Everything I've done so far plunks in the case gauge. A few are a little tight in the LWD barrels, but I think they'll cycle OK.
 
If you have any suspicions of an under charged round be super careful. No rapid fire and if something feels/sounds weird stop and check the barrel for squibs.
 
Gear Head said:
If you have any suspicions of an under charged round be super careful. No rapid fire and if something feels/sounds weird stop and check the barrel for squibs.
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Absolutely.

One at a time, and I want to see every hole. It'll all be a shorter range with either a reactive target, a piece of steel, or one of those splash targets. (And no suppressor)
 
A good habit to maintain is talk to yourself while loading. Check each station before you pull the handle and call it out as you check it. Visually inspect the powder charge as you seat the bullet. Mine goes something like "case-powder - bullet -- down --drop -- up" as I check the case feed, look for powder, place a bullet, push the handle down, operate the powder drop, lift the handle up.
 
The only things I look at when loading are the cases coming out of the case feeder to make sure I don't get one that's upside down and I look in every case to make sure there's powder before I put a bullet on it. My case feeder holds like 100 cases so generally when I refill the feeder I also refill primers. I'll glance at the primers if the rattling gets quieter just to make sure it's not too low. Sucks ass when you run out and don't realize it and have to pull a bunch of bullets.
 
Well...autodrum is going back to Lee. Here's a free tip: don't attempt to manually cycle it by grabbing the black drum and trying to spin it. I slipped some gears, and may have broken the end of the connecting rod. Got the teeth lined back up, but noticed some movement I didn't remember from before, plus I'd flexed the connecting rod pretty good trying to get the teeth lined back up. They'll fix it for free, and cover return shipping...just cost me the ~$7 to send it back. :oops:
 
BigWaylon said:
Well...autodrum is going back to Lee. Here's a free tip: don't attempt to manually cycle it by grabbing the black drum and trying to spin it. I slipped some gears, and may have broken the end of the connecting rod. Got the teeth lined back up, but noticed some movement I didn't remember from before, plus I'd flexed the connecting rod pretty good trying to get the teeth lined back up. They'll fix it for free, and cover return shipping...just cost me the ~$7 to send it back. :oops:
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Ummm ooops
 
Sitting here reading the thread about Academy opening, and a semi-related discussion about buying primers...when I realized the dozen rounds of .357 I loaded have a CCI SPP instead of a magnum. Load is 4.7gr of Titegroup and a coated 158gr SWC. Should I be ok testing those? It'll be a 2" wheelgun if that matters.
 
BigWaylon said:
Sitting here reading the thread about Academy opening, and a semi-related discussion about buying primers...when I realized the dozen rounds of .357 I loaded have a CCI SPP instead of a magnum. Load is 4.7gr of Titegroup and a coated 158gr SWC. Should I be ok testing those? It'll be a 2" wheelgun if that matters.
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Most modern powders do great with normal primers just check data on each powder to make sure data will specify magnum primers if required.
 
Thanks. I did buy a box of magnum primers...just didn't think about swapping out the primer feeder after loading the .38 test rounds.

I'll shoot these and make sure (at least try) to not make the same mistake next time.
 
Lucky13bullets said:
I don't use magnum primers for anything.
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Even with H110? I've never tried it without a mag primer and am shy of doing so because of the common warnings about problems with reduced loads. More importantly, I have a couple cases of sppm so there is no point for me.
 
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