Removing automotive paint from safe

Given the rust at the bottom edge i’d get the thing on its back so you can see what the bottom looks like and work at a more comfortable height.
I've seen the bottom. Mentioned it a couple times...but I already hit it with a grinder and a spray of Rustoleum.
 
I've seen the bottom. Mentioned it a couple times...but I already hit it with a grinder and a spray of Rustoleum.

I’m old, I forget details.
 
I have found that you can use wheel cleaning acid (the powerful stuff sold from Castle) or a rust neutralizing solution. It will turn the rust a grayish color. That’s how you know it works. I have had luck with POR15 on cars (stopping rust from returning).
 
Got out today and sanded again with 120 grit. Wiped it all down with a dry rag, then with acetone. Figured out I never really took any pics, except this one:

IMG_0171.JPG

Plan was to paint on Saturday. Then I decided I didn't want to let the bare metal sit there for a couple days. So, I put a coat of paint on. Thought it might be a one coat application, but it's definitely going to take two.

My one question at this point: Should I lightly sand with some 320 grit (or something else) before applying the second coat? (wasn't really planning on it)

I think it's gonna look pretty good. Need to do the second coat, and also grab some clear to do the door.

Here are a couple shots of the painting:

IMG_0172.JPG

IMG_0174.JPG

IMG_0175.JPG
 
Should've read the can. Figured it was a "2nd coat within a couple hours, or wait 24-48" situation. But, it says "let dry 30 min, recoat within 4 hours, or wait 7 days". So...no second coat this weekend.

Really like the Hammered paint. Here's a pic of how the two-tone turned out:

IMG_0176.JPG
 
I would go over the first coat and knock off the shine to give the second coat something to bite into.
Looking good.
 
I would go over the first coat and knock off the shine to give the second coat something to bite into.
Looking good.
That's about what I figured. Some 320 or even 400.
 
Looking great @BigWaylon!

A bunch of us are anxious for you to get it finished so we can see the photos

and...

sell you a bunch of overpriced guns to fill it. :D
 
Do yourself a favor in protecting the door, and make it easier to handle. Open the door, lift it off and set it aside.
 
Scuffed it up with some 320 in anticipation of the 2nd coat in a couple days. Neighbor came by and said I should leave it like this, as it looked really good. It's almost a camo pattern, with the dark bronze, being a couple shades due to sanding, and a little of the green showing through in spots.

IMG_0190.JPG

Also put a coat of clear on the door. Hoping a second coat in another hour or so fixes the couple of places I messed up (by running a brush over an area that had started to dry).
 
You need to letter the front “Work Boot Storage” just in case thugs ever break in your garage ... you know they don’t mess with work boots :D!
 
Well, the damage is done. Put 12 coats of clear on the door between Sat morning and Monday afternoon. Put the 2nd and 3rd coats of Dark Bronze Hammered on today.

Didn't turn out as good as I hoped, but it's way better than it was. I'll wait for it to cure a day or two and get some pics up.

I was hoping to clear coat the door and then be able to wet sand off any brush marks, but that didn't go so well. Part of the issue is the door still has the original textured paint.

For the Hammered, the second coat went on fairly well. I could still see some roller marks, and thought maybe the third would hide those...and even considered brushing the last coat. Not sure what's up with this paint, but it's some nasty stuff. The can said wait at least 30 min to recoat, but not more than 4 hours. I waited about 2.5. Could brush or roll without it seeming to eat itself off the safe, like it was still too wet.

The 2nd coat didn't have too much issue, but the 3rd ate my roller (like the first did), throwing what looked like spider webs around in the air. The new roller was a completely different kind than the first. Almost thinking it was the paint doing something weird instead of the roller.

Gotta let the garage air out for 3-4 days...this stuff is really strong smelling. Here's teaser pic to see the color combination:

IMG_0208.JPG
 
I wouldn't worry about bare metal.

Work the rust areas as required to remove the rust, repair any damage, then get it ready to prime. Scrape any loose/flaking paint elsewhere, sand it down smooth. Then prime and paint it.

No need to go bare metal.

As for the door...leaving it original is OK, especially since it's in pretty good shape as it is. However, if you're painting the rest of it, you might consider repainting the door and doing some artwork on it, instead.
 
Back
Top Bottom