What's your latest knife project
- Thread starter J R Green
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OP
Not yet. One firing for normalization. Then on to some pin holes and normalize them again.
RR
....glutton for punishment.....
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I like G10 on ringed blades and to take the G10 down all they way and slightly onto the ring. Very comfortable arrangement.
I spent Sunday hammering out two large nessmuks and a large bushcraft.
Also did the preliminary grind on a smaller bushcraft.
Everything is 80crv2 except the smaller of the two nessmuks. It's 1084 and I think will be getting a hamon. Haven't done one in a few years.
I spent Sunday hammering out two large nessmuks and a large bushcraft.
Also did the preliminary grind on a smaller bushcraft.
Everything is 80crv2 except the smaller of the two nessmuks. It's 1084 and I think will be getting a hamon. Haven't done one in a few years.
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RR
....glutton for punishment.....
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Forge thick and grind thin they say. It'll be fun they say....
Little more cleanup to do on the big one then it's drill, thermocycle, quench, temper, scales, sheath.
80CRV2
Little more cleanup to do on the big one then it's drill, thermocycle, quench, temper, scales, sheath.
80CRV2
I havenāt been able to get in the shop lately but got out there today and started forging a damascus blade. I got it rough shaped and itās in the vermiculite bucket cooling down. Here are a couple of photos.
OP
I haven't been brave enough to try a damascus billet yet. Honestly I don't know if my forge will get hot enough.
What forge are you using?
I use a one burner diamond back. It gets plenty hot for small billets.
Got this one coming together. The guard is damascus as well as the blade. The pattern will come out once itās etched. This is at 120 grit and Iāll go to 600 grit. A layered G10 spacer(s) will go behind the guard.
The Damascus is etched and the guard is mounted to the blade. Trying to decide on the spacers between the guard and stag - maybe nickle
silver with black micarta. The butt cap will be damascus.
silver with black micarta. The butt cap will be damascus.
OP
How do you cut the hole in the guard for the tang? This is the most tedious part of knife making for me.
It is for me as well. I have a milling machine I will use in the future if I build a new shop but for now I use my drill press.
Here is how I do it.
After I coat the guard with machinist dye I scribe the center line as well as the depth of the tang shoulders. If iām using a 3/16ā bit I lay out (as well as I can) points along the center line based on the diameter of the bit plus a little extra as to avoid overlapping holes. Then I use a spring punch to establish the drill point. The idea is to reduce the amount of material between holes as much as possible.
This is something I read which has helped tremendously-chuck the drill bit as to expose the least amount of drill possible. This will help avoid drill bit play. Stay on the drill points, go slow and use drill oil.
After the holes are drill comes the tedious part of filing through the holes to make the opening. Then itās just a matter of filing to the scribed lines and multiple test fits.
Another tip is drilling in the back side. Say for instance you use a 1/4ā thick guard. Drill out the back side with a larger bit. Make sure itās not going to show on the finished piece. You could drill out the back side to a depth of 1/8ā. This way you have reduced the part you have to drill and file by 50%.
I hope this helps.
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This is a a blade that I did the grind on a year or so back. I was looking through my 'salvage' box and thought I would finish it. I'm calling it a tactical ( 
) letter opener that can be used as a last defense when opening letters is not enough. Or it could be a pull as a last resort boot knife. The blade is thin so it would be sabby, so to speak in soft tissue though the tip might bend if it hits hard bone. Nontheless, I think its a pretty cool little knife. Not the most perfect plunge lines or symetrical knife but at the time I thought it was pretty good. I think it finished up nicely. Micarta scales with a thin red G10 liner and the blade has a faint etch, 6-3/8" OAL.
) letter opener that can be used as a last defense when opening letters is not enough. Or it could be a pull as a last resort boot knife. The blade is thin so it would be sabby, so to speak in soft tissue though the tip might bend if it hits hard bone. Nontheless, I think its a pretty cool little knife. Not the most perfect plunge lines or symetrical knife but at the time I thought it was pretty good. I think it finished up nicely. Micarta scales with a thin red G10 liner and the blade has a faint etch, 6-3/8" OAL.
OP
I see what you mean. But it's still a knife.
Here is one I was working on yesterday. Kind of messed up with the grinder but I'm going to go ahead and finish it out.
I wish There was a way to lock in the tempering colors.
Here is one I was working on yesterday. Kind of messed up with the grinder but I'm going to go ahead and finish it out.
I wish There was a way to lock in the tempering colors.
I have some that I had wished the same but with post HT grind and final sanding it just ain't going to happen.
Tell us more aabout this knife. The photo is hard to see the details. Did you put a fuller in it?
RR
....glutton for punishment.....
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I've got an ugly tanto that I'm gonna finish out. Sometimes it's worth it just to hang on the shop wall to remind you of what you've learned from it.
OP
Yeah, it's a fuller and there is part of where I messed up. The grinder might have gotten away from me a bit while doing them.
Another Bowie. I have had this one profiled for a while and decided to start the assembly process. The guard is on permanently but Iām still dry fitting the stag handle.
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OP
I'm feeling out classed.
Well how do you think those of us who can't go for a week without misplacing a knife feel???š
Getting close to finishing this one up. Forged feather damascus three finger knife. Some might call it a bird and trout knife. Micarta and Koa handle with nickel silver guard and butt cap.
OP
The blade pattern makes me think of a farmers field for some reason.šFinished up the assembly and the first coat of true oil has been applied. OAL is 6".
Just forged this one out. The blade is made from vintage plow shears. Iāve used this material before and it makes a tough knife. Iāll most likely finish this one for bushcraft use. The sheath will have a ferro rod attached. 
