With lead?
(.40 is my next attempt, but had to place order yesterday for projectiles)
will have the same issues as the 9mm, range brass will vary in height and cause issues.
With lead?
(.40 is my next attempt, but had to place order yesterday for projectiles)
Well, I hope so...because I have 1500 .356 zombies sitting here.You should slug your barrels to see what size lead you should be running, maybe you can run .356 in them.
With lead?
(.40 is my next attempt, but had to place order yesterday for projectiles)
I'll order the pizza. What day are you coming over?yeap. And I load a bunch every year, year after year. I shoot about 200 rounds a week, every week. All with range brass. I dont seperate. Tumble and load, shoot. Rinse and repeat
Well, I hope so...because I have 1500 .356 zombies sitting here.
Zombies so far. Also ordered some other brands to try, but all are coated lead. Some round nose (9) and some flat point (40). No wadcutters except for a bag I ordered for .38/.357.Zombies and lead are two different things.
When you said lead I thought you meant wad cutters. If you are loading zombie coated bullets then I treat them just like plated bullets and run them through the Lee FCD. You will not have any lead issues.
I'll order the pizza. What day are you coming over?
That's exactly how you "crimp" any auto-pistol caliber. No crimp, just remove the flare. The case mouth should be square to the case wall. If it dips inward at all you're over-crimping. Look at a factory round under a magnifying glass and make it look like that.Is setting it to remove the flare, but not crimp, an option?
Is the taper crimp die different than the factory crimp die?Lee also sells a taper crimp die you could get. I have one I use for lead and it works great. If you will separate your seating and "crimping" into two separate steps and do it real soon you will add years to your life, its so much simpler.
Yes.Is the taper crimp die different than the factory crimp die?
I just thought of something else. All your barrels are lone Wolf barrels, or were they kkm? I can't remember what you told me. Either way, get the FCD. Those barrels have tighter chambers than stock barrels. I have run tens of thousands of coated lead through my fcd and never had a problem.
I just thought of something else. All your barrels are lone Wolf barrels, or were they kkm? I can't remember what you told me. Either way, get the FCD. Those barrels have tighter chambers than stock barrels. I have run tens of thousands of coated lead through my fcd and never had a problem.
Yes, all Lone Wolf. Both .40, and 40-9. That's the reason I said I'd seriously considered sending them in to get reamed. Can't remember who said it, probably Don or Jim, but evidently LWD will ream the chamber for you if you send them the barrel and loaded ammo you want to use.I didnt catch that earlier, if you are running a real tight chamber barrel the FCD may be a better solution. Slug your barrel to see what size coated lead you need, if you need a .355 or .356 bullet the FCD should be fine. But, hey, they are cheap, may as well get both and see what you like better.
Those were all done yesterday by myself, before we removed and reinstalled all of them today.Those are all over crimped. Back your whole die out 3 turns and try again.
After seeing that I bet you are bulging the case and that is why they won't chamber
At this point, probably worth pulling the bullets from the dozen I loaded today and seeing what they look like?After that screw in the seating die an eighth of a turn till you just remove the flare and remember to unscrew the bullet seat stem the same eighth in the opposite direction to keep your bullet seated at the same length
Yep.ETA NVM... threads, cans - duh!
May try that tomorrow. Can't remember exactly how much it was adjusted after making contact...but I don't think it was 2-3 turns.The bullet seating die should be turned down until it contacts the brass not the shell plate. Then turn it out 2 or 3 turns and lock it. The adjust your seating depth.
Slightly different settings for flat vs round nose?Here is how I roll
To adjust OAL, as the bullet itself is a different length...right?Only with the seating stem but everything else is the same
Just on seating depth if required. Heck, I set the dies and go with round nose the same as flat point. C.O.L changes but the depth of bullet I believe stays the same and my pistol keeps diggin, so do ISlightly different settings for flat vs round nose?
So now I just have to figure out how to remove the primers, powder and shell dispenser without making a mess.
Will check on that. Thanks...not sure that's anything I've checked in all the tinkering.is your powder measure screwed all the way down? the black thumb ring on the bottom of the measure... the flare die wont flare unless it is