What did you do in the reloading room today?

I’ve spent 2 weeks working up 300 grain and 405 grain 45-70 loads for this single shot with a new powder. The group at 100 looks great but by 200 barely stay on the paper. I’ve blamed the loads but I think it’s the peep sight and my old eyes lol !!
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Did brass prep on 88 pieces of 7.5x55 Swiss, primed all of them, loaded 50 of them so I can work up the load. Think I want to clone the PPU factory stuff for POI, so once the gun is sighted it won't matter if I'm shooting reloads or factory stuff.

I had one snafu. I ended up using AMAX bullets. I had 300 of those on hand and no BTHP unless I dig into the Sierra stuff which is more expensive to replace.
 
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I have been setting aside a bunch of 223/5.56 brass that need the primer pocket swagged. I finished all I had to do today and start thinking about a gallon+ bag of brass that needed to be worked. So I started working on it. I do not want to do that again. It might be a couple hundred cases but felt like thousands.
 
KnotRight said:
I have been setting aside a bunch of 223/5.56 brass that need the primer pocket swagged. I finished all I had to do today and start thinking about a gallon+ bag of brass that needed to be worked. So I started working on it. I do not want to do that again. It might be a couple hundred cases but felt like thousands.
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I have tried various methods and gadgets for cutting or swaging crimps, including:

1) RCBS crimp remover bits.
2) Dillon swager
3) Lee APP with swaging kits, both the original and the redesigned models (they are quite different from one another).
4) Lee press mounted swager.
5) CH4D press mounted swager.

The cutting bit works much quicker in a drill than it does in a case processing station, since the drill spins faster. The finished product is probably the best of all the methods, IMHO.

The Lee APP with the newer swaging design works reasonably well for large batches, but the regular press mounted kit works exceptionally well for smaller batches.

The Dillon is more cumbersome than the Lee, and has to be adjusted carefully, and sometimes for each headstamp (different web thicknesses). Not a big deal, but I did process a bunch of brass one time with it adjusted a little too deep and ended up ruining a bunch of brass, with loose primer pockets. Switching between large/small sizes is rather involved. There are optional rods for different diameter cases.

The CH4D swager is difficult to adjust. There is a fine line between getting just enough swage, and damaging the rim of the case. All of the force of the swaging operation is on the rim, instead of against the internal web as it is on most other swagers. I damaged too many rims trying to get it right, and finally just gave up on it and sold it, with full disclosure to the buyer.

For most of what I do now, I will grab the Lee press mounted kit. It takes just a few seconds to install it in my press, Quick and easy.

I sometimes will cut or swage the primer pockets of S&B brass. The S&B brass is not crimped, but has no radius on the primer pocket, which makes seating primers very difficult. Other than that, I consider S&B brass to be good quality.
 
Toprudder said:
I have tried various methods and gadgets for cutting or swaging crimps, including:

1) RCBS crimp remover bits.
2) Dillon swager
3) Lee APP with swaging kits, both the original and the redesigned models (they are quite different from one another).
4) Lee press mounted swager.
5) CH4D press mounted swager.

The cutting bit works much quicker in a drill than it does in a case processing station, since the drill spins faster. The finished product is probably the best of all the methods, IMHO.

The Lee APP with the newer swaging design works reasonably well for large batches, but the regular press mounted kit works exceptionally well for smaller batches.

The Dillon is more cumbersome than the Lee, and has to be adjusted carefully, and sometimes for each headstamp (different web thicknesses). Not a big deal, but I did process a bunch of brass one time with it adjusted a little too deep and ended up ruining a bunch of brass, with loose primer pockets. Switching between large/small sizes is rather involved. There are optional rods for different diameter cases.

The CH4D swager is difficult to adjust. There is a fine line between getting just enough swage, and damaging the rim of the case. All of the force of the swaging operation is on the rim, instead of against the internal web as it is on most other swagers. I damaged too many rims trying to get it right, and finally just gave up on it and sold it, with full disclosure to the buyer.

For most of what I do now, I will grab the Lee press mounted kit. It takes just a few seconds to install it in my press, Quick and easy.

I sometimes will cut or swage the primer pockets of S&B brass. The S&B brass is not crimped, but has no radius on the primer pocket, which makes seating primers very difficult. Other than that, I consider S&B brass to be good quality.
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I have the CH4 but been using the RCBS dies
 
Toprudder said:
I have tried various methods and gadgets for cutting or swaging crimps, including:

1) RCBS crimp remover bits.
2) Dillon swager
3) Lee APP with swaging kits, both the original and the redesigned models (they are quite different from one another).
4) Lee press mounted swager.
5) CH4D press mounted swager.

The cutting bit works much quicker in a drill than it does in a case processing station, since the drill spins faster. The finished product is probably the best of all the methods, IMHO.

The Lee APP with the newer swaging design works reasonably well for large batches, but the regular press mounted kit works exceptionally well for smaller batches.

The Dillon is more cumbersome than the Lee, and has to be adjusted carefully, and sometimes for each headstamp (different web thicknesses). Not a big deal, but I did process a bunch of brass one time with it adjusted a little too deep and ended up ruining a bunch of brass, with loose primer pockets. Switching between large/small sizes is rather involved. There are optional rods for different diameter cases.

The CH4D swager is difficult to adjust. There is a fine line between getting just enough swage, and damaging the rim of the case. All of the force of the swaging operation is on the rim, instead of against the internal web as it is on most other swagers. I damaged too many rims trying to get it right, and finally just gave up on it and sold it, with full disclosure to the buyer.

For most of what I do now, I will grab the Lee press mounted kit. It takes just a few seconds to install it in my press, Quick and easy.

I sometimes will cut or swage the primer pockets of S&B brass. The S&B brass is not crimped, but has no radius on the primer pocket, which makes seating primers very difficult. Other than that, I consider S&B brass to be good quality.
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Cheap Drill press and counter sink bit. Still a pain, of all of them is the staking or stabbed crimp plenty of the LC 12 I have is that way, but one n done.... of them all the counter sink by feel, then the LEE APP..

-Snoopz
 
I did something today that I have not done in a while. I created some test loads in 45acp for two new (to me) powders - W244 and W572. 230gn plated bullets. I’ll have to double check, I think that should bring me close to 35 powders I’ve tried in 45acp.
 
Toprudder said:
I have tried various methods and gadgets for cutting or swaging crimps, including:

1) RCBS crimp remover bits.
2) Dillon swager
3) Lee APP with swaging kits, both the original and the redesigned models (they are quite different from one another).
4) Lee press mounted swager.
5) CH4D press mounted swager.

The cutting bit works much quicker in a drill than it does in a case processing station, since the drill spins faster. The finished product is probably the best of all the methods, IMHO.

The Lee APP with the newer swaging design works reasonably well for large batches, but the regular press mounted kit works exceptionally well for smaller batches.

The Dillon is more cumbersome than the Lee, and has to be adjusted carefully, and sometimes for each headstamp (different web thicknesses). Not a big deal, but I did process a bunch of brass one time with it adjusted a little too deep and ended up ruining a bunch of brass, with loose primer pockets. Switching between large/small sizes is rather involved. There are optional rods for different diameter cases.

The CH4D swager is difficult to adjust. There is a fine line between getting just enough swage, and damaging the rim of the case. All of the force of the swaging operation is on the rim, instead of against the internal web as it is on most other swagers. I damaged too many rims trying to get it right, and finally just gave up on it and sold it, with full disclosure to the buyer.

For most of what I do now, I will grab the Lee press mounted kit. It takes just a few seconds to install it in my press, Quick and easy.

I sometimes will cut or swage the primer pockets of S&B brass. The S&B brass is not crimped, but has no radius on the primer pocket, which makes seating primers very difficult. Other than that, I consider S&B brass to be good quality.
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When did the redesigned APP come out. I have one that I bought about a year ago. It is still in the box but I intend to get it out soon. Is there some way I can tell which version I have?
 
FritztheCat said:
When did the redesigned APP come out. I have one that I bought about a year ago. It is still in the box but I intend to get it out soon. Is there some way I can tell which version I have?
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The new version has spring loaded fingers that center the case mouth.
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The original kit:
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Setup for 6mm Remington for the first time for my brother. Worked up a few rounds to test for in his rifle and do some pressure test shots.
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Found a box of Berger 185's that I'm thinking of trying in my .308. Prepped 100 rounds of same (Starline). All I have in stock is R15 and now to see where to start. :rolleyes:
 
Downeast said:
Found a box of Berger 185's that I'm thinking of trying in my .308. Prepped 100 rounds of same (Starline). All I have in stock is R15 and now to see where to start. :rolleyes:
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I didn’t look sat when I was in my LGS but the last time I did, they had multiple boxes of juggernauts on the shelf.
 
I haven’t done much in my reloading room since I moved in June. I have worked, fished tournaments, and charter fished every since end of June. I am taking some time off for the holidays so I am finally unpacking, organizing, and setting up my man cave/tackle room/reloading room. I got my cabinets set in place and countertop set on them but my keys to my toolbox are looked in my toolbox so I don’t have a drill or impact handy I’m trying to just get everything put away and organized and tomorrow I’ll secure the cabinets/counter top, mount my presses and shelves/wall storage.518837C3-C1B9-468E-94E3-AAD76702AB39.jpeg616CFDFC-5580-41B6-9D73-055677B8CF11.jpegA55D1780-8559-4A66-A56A-982FE2704746.jpeg
 
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SINNER said:
I’ve spent 2 weeks working up 300 grain and 405 grain 45-70 loads for this single shot with a new powder. The group at 100 looks great but by 200 barely stay on the paper. I’ve blamed the loads but I think it’s the peep sight and my old eyes lol !!
View attachment 699237View attachment 699239
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Man if I could shoot a group like that with your rig I’d be ecstatic! Awesome shooting sir!
 
Been tussling with my 257 Roberts…just can’t get her to play nice and have ordered a neck sizing die to hopefully get her back on track.
 
Loaded some 9mm with Berrys 124gr HHP bullets. For years I have used either Unique or Bullseye, mostly Bullseye. Now I am working on a load for the Berrys using Tite Group or CFE pistol.
 
The counter top I salvaged is not as sturdy as the cabinets and will need to be replaced. I think I’m going to get some good straight 2x12 12’ long with no knots and glue them together to make a new sturdy bench top. Also I can gain over 2 feet of countertop space since I won’t be using a countertop originally used for something else. I’m trying to decide now whether or not to cut the baseboard and quarter round out of the way or just use some shims to make up for the thickness of the trim at the bottom so I can secure the cabinets to the wall and not rely strictly on weight to keep the whole thing from moving.

I just sketched this after the kitchen table to scale to see how everything would work out i think it’ll work great.
B766C75F-23C4-4B7D-B58B-4877FE591016.jpeg
 
flhtci06 said:
Been tussling with my 257 Roberts…just can’t get her to play nice and have ordered a neck sizing die to hopefully get her back on track.
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Missed a doe late this evening at about 175 yards…putting myself in the penalty box 😖😖😖. Ain’t missed a deer in probably 20 years…🥺. But it was a clean miss 🙏
 
I worked up some test loads in 45-70. Three powders (H4895, H4198, and 5744). I looked at Speer, Hornady, Hodgdon, Western, and Waters Pet Loads. I also ran QuickLoad. I noticed some disparity between them, so I decided to only load one round of each charge level, 5 rounds for each powder.

I was able to chrono the loads today. H4895 was about what I expected, H4198 was a lot hotter than I expected (I only shot the lowest charge), 5744 was slower than I expected. Now I have a better idea of charge ranges so I can zero in on a load for each.

I shot with a rest and a rear bag. I think next time I will use my Lead Sled to take some of the load off my shoulder - that thing kicks!
 
Deprimed, cleaned, annealed, sized, and primed 177 .30-06 cases for the Garand. I’ll probably load them over some 4064 at some point tomorrow evening.

Then I dropped a sleeve of small rifle primers and spent 20 minutes hunting every last one down.

Did I need to? No.

Do I walk past a dime and not pick it up? Also no.
 
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I finished my new countertop today and got it set in place and my presses mounted. I debated putting stain and poly on it but decided to just let it age and wear in Just like it is just because I didn’t have a stain on hand that I thought was light enough. This will work so much better than the plywood/laminate top I was trying to use. Also commandeered one of my dads TVs they just replaced to use as a computer monitor. I’m going to move the big old TV to the garage. 92F4A6EB-5BEA-42A9-99F5-1CBA090D8DB0.jpeg9851021F-38B4-4D97-BC29-9A253A9C6A41.jpeg6476EC05-6158-4BEE-97C6-9464690AF98E.jpeg
 
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I loaded up 50 .223 73gr eldm this evening. Also made an adaptor to attach my case prep tools to a cordless screwdriver I got last Christmas. Cut off a piece 1/4 hex wrench, ground the ends square on the surface grinder and then edm’ed an 8-32 thread in one end. Works awesome.
 
Didn’t load anything today but I did shoot a work up for my 6mm creed. 100gr gamekings over imr4350. Found a nice powder node with single digit es and sd and a tight group. Now I need to load up some more and test in that node. I need to test the eldm loads I’ve got waiting too. Dang wind made it not so enjoyable, at least it was a straight head wind and I was only shooting 100yds.
 
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New dies showed up today, so I'm going to load some 7.62x54/3R this evening. The M39 has a .310 bore, so I'm going to try an assortment of .308 bullets and see if they're acceptable before I go buying .311s.
 
Oh and my rifle fell off the table and thunked on the ground and plugging the barrel. Cleaned it up and shot my ammo it was sighted in with with minimal drift. Whew, glad the ground is so spongy or I could have had a busted scope.
 
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