Thanks Toprudder... good info. I am sure the RCBS die I just got in is common, and not one of the tapered dies you are talking about, but regardless, the bulge is not there, or not as noticeable anyway. I also got the Redding competition seating die to go with it. My thoughts, maybe it helps align the bullet straighter than I can, also helping reduce "side bulge" from bullet not being aligned properly. My fingers are not used to holding such tiny bullets.
Good info, if I continue and see bulging issues, I will dig deeper. My OCD will not tolerate the bulge..... Drives me insane......
Don’t pretend to be an expert reloader, but I had problems with 9mm and I have seen folks with $3500 Wilson’s complain at the range about feeding and bulging.
Also heard a lot of comments about only using the Lyman factory crimping dies... Going to upgrade to a Dillon XL750 and keep my RCBS dies for short runs or experiments. The Dillon dies are also "straight wall or RING resizing dies" and the crimp is tapered, not rolled or factory.
Also talked to the RMR owner about the 147 FMJ and his “advice” on how NOT to have problems on a CZ chamber which supposedly has a shorter leade. This is what I learned, from several sources and my own experience...or possibly inexperience.
I used once fired shells and barely belled then with a pair of needle nose pliers so I could slip in a bullet. I then removed the barrels from a CZ Shadow 2 and a Springfield Armory Range Officer. I had observed that bulging was not an issue in the Glock 17 & 34. It would take anything. Smith Performance Center 9L was a little more finicky. Take a Failure To Fire (which is actually a chambering problem) and put it in the Glocks...BANG. Same For Ruger’s....which I have five 9mm.
Bottom line pushed the shell with the sliding bullet into the SA RO and the RMR 147’s are barely in the shell. Then move the same round to the CZ and it pushes in a little further. BUT that was in the 1.230 COAL range. 1.170 is the max if memory serves me. So the FTF issue is not the short Leade. It is the crimping.
A friend that was a bench rest shooter walked me through the proper crimping setup. I compared that method with how Dillon’s video says to set up a crimped. SAME Process.
I found that I had the crimping die set at least 0.100 to far down. So, the bulge was the issue. This is how I set it up and have not had any issues since then. It also helps to read a little. The heavier or over crimping you do, the greater risk of bulging. RMR says to just seat lower. Yes, that is one fix, but not the correct one. All you are doing is spreading the overcrimping bulge out. Need to adjust the crimp properly. Measuring to me is tricky. You need a high resolution profile comparator to properly do that. Many can accurately measure....but after you read the article, try my method.
https://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/...anation-how-set-right-amount-taper-crimp.html
Ideally, if you extend the ram to the top of the stroke with a belled shell and then screw down the die with your fingers until very snug, then you back off on the shell and screw the die down 1/3 turn, that will work. You are shooting for lowering the die around 0.025....one full turn is 0..070.
But the above also depends on how much you Bell. I think this will also work....maybe even better.
Measure the bullet OD.. Subtract 0.004. That is the ID that you want the shell to be at the lip or leading edge of shell AFTER CRIMPING. Here is what I might suggest as a practical way to get there...
Follow the SAME setup. Use a BELLED shell (sized with no primer). Do the 1/3 turn DOWN. NOW.... Measure the inside diameter of the lip. It should be the same as the Bullet Diameter MINUS 0.004.
Keep adjusting until you the ID of the crimped shell is in that range. NOW you CAN test that. Full length resize say 25 rounds. Bell, but don’t put in a primer. Drop in your bullet (keep the COAL in the recommended range for that bullet). Run the belled shells through the crimping dies with a properly seated bullet. NOW....will these shells fall into the barrel and either fall right out when you invert the barrel? Can you pull out the shell with a Fingernail or is easily removable with your finger tips? If so, then use your fingers and try to TWIST the Bullet. Is it TIGHT? OR put pliers on the case rim and another pair on the bullet. Can you move it or twist it. If the answer is NO and it PASSES the PLUNK TEST in your barrels....then you are probably good to go.
You should notice, if you were overcrimping, a reduction in the press handle force for seat and crimp. If it sticks, then go down about 1/8 turn on the crimping die....remember to adjust the seating plug UP an equal amount to maintain COAL. Repeat using small increments such as 1/8th turn.
If it did NOT stick....then drive on....but if you are worried about TOO much Crimp, STILL, then back out 1/8 of a turn and run some more....then the Plunk Test. Eventually, you will (should) get chambering problems on the PLUNK test....then go down another 1/8 turn.....just to be sure. Do the Pliers or Finger pull/twist test.
You can pull the test bullets resize the shells and use them now. Nothing wasted.
My experience is that once you have the crimp set to a good, practical MINIMUM, then the tapered crimping die will not be bulging the side walls, regardless of bullet length. One man's experience and understanding....others may have issues....but it works for me....